TWEAKS FOR ELECTRONICS
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- There is so much that can be done to electronics to make
them sound much better. I would like to share some of these with
you.
- I don't want to share info on which caps, resistors, diodes,
wires, transistors, tubes, circuitry, etc. to use inside electronics.
This is way to complex and controversial. Everyone has a different
opinion.
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- 1. Get rid of those stupid distorted binding posts. All binding
posts, including the best ones (Cardas and MusicPosts) distort
the sound. I'm sure you would not want to listen to a heavy gauge
thick speaker wire made out of solid brass or ordinary copper.
It would sound real bad. That is how binding posts sound, even
though they are only an inch or so long. The easiest way to eliminate
the binding post sound is to bring the wire from inside the amp
to the outside and put the bare end of the wire into the hole
on the outside of binding post. You put your spade or better
yet, bare wire from your speaker cable against this wire and
Hosanna, a wire to wire clamp. Hence way better sound! This can
be done at the speaker end as well. Some manufacturers of speakers
even put tip jacks on their speakers so you can only use the
even more distorted banana plugs. Stay away from all adapters
and extra connections too.
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- 2. Get rid of all LEDs. LEDs add grain and distortion. Tons
of it!!! LCD displays on CD/DVD players, etc don't distort the
sound. If you need to have an LED for some reason then put a
switch on it so it can be turned off when you are playing music.
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- 3. Change the steel screw that holds your big diode bridge
down to the chassis in your amp to brass. The field around these
diode bridges is huge. The magnetic steel screw messes up the
sound.
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- 4. Try and eliminate vibrations anywhere you can. Constrained
layer damping materials can be added to chassis parts, heat sinks,
heat sink tabs on transistors, circuit boards (you do not want
any damping material put directly on top of signal carrying parts
or traces). Doing so would add the sound of the damping material
(dialectric absorption) to the signal. Of course, you want to
use the best feet and shelving under your equipment.
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- 5. Add tons of large transformers and separate power supplies
(regulated or not). All power supplies should be as separate
as possible. Example: You have a stereo tube amp. It has one
power transformer for all power supplies for both channels (real
bad). You do not want any of the power supplies to see
each other. The high current heater supplies should not see each
other nor should they see any of the high voltage supplies. So,
just add 9 more transformers!!!!!! For each channel you
would have a transformer and power supply for the input stage,
the output stage, the bias supply, the heaters for the input
stage and a big transformer for the heaters of the output stage.
WOW! This is the only way that an all out tube amp should be
done. The sound is so transparent and dynamic when this is done.
Of course, this is the same with transistor gear. Every power
supply should have its own transformer!! I have made a DAC for
my friend Michael Danis that has 10 power transformers (5 for
digital and 5 for the analog stages. This DAC is clean, mean,
clean!
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- 6. Get rid of all unneccesary circuitry. I am a no preamp
dude and I have been for 20 years. But, let's look at some even
more controversial things to remove. The last output buffer and
all anti alias filters on most DACs and CD players can be completely
removed. The measurers tell us that doing so will send all kinds
of ultrasonics into the preamp or amp and cause intermodulation
distortion. These same measurers have never actually listened
to what these filters do to the sound. If you have filters
then you need a buffer following the filters. In my experience
the Burr-Brown PCM 63, 1702 and the UltraAnalog DACs do not need
any filtering or buffering. They sound much better into any load
this way. I first started doing this when I had an amp that had
an 800 K bandwidth. Even a single pole of filtering messed up
the sound. On one bit DACs it is a little trickier. The ultrasonic
noise on some one bit DACs is so close to the audio band that
it can fold down into the audio band causing hiss and hum. I
have been able to use just 2 poles of filters on the latest Sony's,
1 pole on the latest Crystal DAC chips and no filters on the
latest Burr-Brown DACs. Older one bit DAC chips in the Marantz
63 and JVC 1050 required 4 poles of filters to keep the noise
out of the audio band. Please don't bother to e-mail me about
how crazy this is and that Nyquist is going to come to me in
the middle of the night and filter my brain or something. Let's
keep a sense of humor. If you have actually done very critical
listening tests and come to a different conclusion, I
would like to hear about it.
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- 7. Use only one side of all dual triode tubes. The amplifiers
in a tube are operating in a vacuum. The electrons from one amp
can effect the other. It sounds much better to use single triodes
or just ground the pins of one of the tube halves. Paralleling
the two sides of the same tube sounds much worse than just using
one side. Both channels in the same tube? You have got to be
kidding!
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